Build A Late Model Hemi Engine

I prefer to use the Mopar Performance Block from a few years ago. These blocks have a  a full water jacket, not siamese bore. I start off having the mains studded. So, the saddle bores must be align honed for proper bearing crush. Then I have the decks resurfaced for a rougher finish to hold the head gasket properly. They come too smooth in my opinion. Then they are deburred and all sharp edges removed.

I install new ARP main stud for superior clamping force. When you install main studs, a few thousands need to be removed from the main caps, then installed, torqued to correct value, then align honed to size. This picture shows the align hone process being done on this 426 Hemi block.

 

With the head gasket and torque plate installed, final hone can now begin. I can not get the correct picture to show the machinist honing the bore to correct size. These blocks are already finished at 4.25" I use pistons that need 4.255" bore So the bore needs to be finished at that same size. The wall to skirt clearance is .0035 on these pistons. The forged pistons I am using, are made of 4032 aluminum and run tighter clearances than the 2618 aluminum. I'm using JE pistons for this Hemi.

While the block is having the cam bearings installed, and it is being washed, lets take a look at the rotating assembly being balanced. First, the rods are balanced on the big end, then the small end. The their overall weight is matched. All of the pistons are the same targeted weight from the manufacture. I have the damper, crankshaft, flywheel, pressure plate and the bob weights all bolted as one assembly to be balanced. There is no chance of the assembly being out of balance when all components are used in the balancing process.

I like using the H-beam connecting rods. They are lighter and stronger than the stock pieces of yesteryear. First they are torqued to correct value of 30ft.lbs. Then turned another 60 degrees for correct bolt stretch. This is called torque/ angle method. It is very accurate. Each rod undergoes bore dementional measurements. The big end must be checked for proper size for proper bearing crush and the small end(The bushing) is checked.  We do not want to have excessive wrist pin clearance or too tight also. Corrections are made at this time if needed. The rods are opened to install the bearings, then re- torqued and bearing measurements are made.

Eventhough the block comes clean from the machine shop. Feel free to throughly wash and clean every surface. I use dawn dish detergent, pressure washer, brushes, lacquer thinner and WD-40    I believe it can never be too clean.

This is a tool that I made to push the rings down squarely iin the bore. It needs to be square to the deck surface so a ring end gap measurement can be made. I install them 1" down then make measurements.

I can't express enough how important it is to use the ring manufacture's recommendation on the end gaps. This top ring will be installed at .018

This is a machine I built to machine ring end gaps accurately. I remove the exact amount necessary. The design of the tool keeps the ring end gap square. This is very important. The dial indicator shows me exactly how much I have removed.

Make sure to break the edges of the rings before ever installing them. Get in the habit of always doing it, even fresh out of the box. Especially after file fitting them.

I know that the number on the box of rings indicate that they are standard tension, but I always install them in the bore to verify. If you can butt the ends together on the expander ring and it stays in place, you have standard oil tension. This is great on the street. If it falls out, you have low or light tension oil rings.

Now it is time to get the camshaft ready for installation. Wash it throughly with solvent and coat the journals with assembly lube. This is a hydraulic roller cam, so it does not need special lube on the lobes. Simply use assembly oil.

I made a tool that is 15" long to screw into the front journal of the cam to aid in installation. Reach up inside and coat the cam bearing surfaces with assembly lube and slowly and deliberately, install the cam.

Before getting too far into it, I suggest that you mockup the valve train and check for clearance issues. Install the camshaft first. If you look real hard in the picture, the pushrod on the left runs real close to the hole drilled in the block. In fact, I  mocked this engine up to find out that I needed to remove a lot of material. After I removed the material, I washed the block and proceeded. Always mock up the valvetrain. If you are going to use a stroker crankshaft, mock it up in case you need to make clearance changes.

I also suggest that you mock up the bottom end before final assembly. When using some of the stroker cranks and certain connecting rods, you must make sure that you have clearance between the rod and the bottom of the cylinder bores. Please check them all and clearance then with at least .060" or it will hit when it heats up. I had to grind and mock it up several times to avoid problems. It is easier now rather than when it is all lubed up and you are assembling.

Another must is to check the clearance between the number one connecting rod and the pickup tube. More importantly, is the cast iron section where the pickup tube screws into the block. You must have at least .060" or it will hit. This block has been clearanced in the particular section.

Clean the backside of all of the main bearing surfaces with lacquer thinner. There are uppers and lowers of these and you will install then accordingly. I prefer the bearings that have grooved uppers and non grooved lowers. I want more bearing surface to support oil when the rod is subjected to load changes. I have a whole section on engine bearings in my upcoming book.

Clean the saddles in the block with lacquer thinner. We don't want a foreign object underneath the bearing causing any problems.

Install the upper halves of the main bearings. Notice the tang that is used to keep the bearing from moving. Install that end first. Then push the opposite end down with some force. If it falls in, that is not good. The resistance you will feel when installing them is called bearing preload. Every bearing in this engine has to have preload.

Another great tool to use when putting a thin line of silicone down. I do this underneath the rear main seal for added protection against oil leaks.

The rear main seal is lowered down into the groove. Push on the two mating edges and push until it bottoms out. Lip of seal faces in. I dab a bit of silicone on the mating surfaces of the seal so when they make contact, they will seal together.

Prepare the crankshaft for installation by cleaning. Run a soft bristle brush down the oil passages with lacquer thinner to make sure it is clean. Even if it is new, never trust that it is clean. Wash it throughly with detergent, then solvent, air dry then spray WD-40 to protect. I apply a film of motor oil to the knurled surface of the crankshaft where the seal rides. Dry start up will destroy the seal.

Lets coat all the bearing surfaces with Torco assembly lube. Especially the center thrust surfaces. Dry start up will ruin this surface instantly and end play will exceed safe and exceptable limits.

Slowly, lower the crankshaft in a controlled manor down into the block, keeping it parallel at all times.

If your engine is using  main studs, install them now. This avoids a nick in the crankshaft if you were to put the studs in first. Install moly lube on the threads, and screw them in finger tight. Do not attempt to tighten them mechanically. I do not rotate the crankshaft until the rear main seal is completely installed. I do not want oil to interfere with the silicone that I use to seal the two mating edges together.

At this time you apply the assembly lube to the bearing surface and install them in their perspective places. Keep them in order and keep the tangs on the same side. The scratch marks are from the dial bore indicator. You can remove them with scotch brite or leave them alone. It is harmless like it is.

I use that same tool used earlier to lay down a thin bead of red silicone into the rear main seal housing. Make sure to install the seal with the lip facing inwards. I manufacture the fiberboard side seals that you cannot get anymore. They expect you just to fill this area with silicone. I don't like that.

By now, you should have all the main bearing caps down in position. Apply a generous amount of ARP assembly lube to the threads and underside of nuts and both sides of the washers.

These ARP studs use 12 point nuts. Don't let there little size fool you. They are actually stronger than a full size six sided nut. Lube inbetween the washer and nut also.

Begin to torque the nuts with a three increment process. 45,65,85ft. lbs. When you go to torque the center thrust bearing, wedge a stout screwdriver between the crank throw, and the block, forcing the crankshaft to one end then torque down. This sets the thrust bearing in place. The center main cap has a little bit of lateral movement. By forcing the thrust face of the crankshaft against bearing, this ensures that both surfaces are bearing the same equal amount of load.

This is the special side seals that I make. A film of red silicone under this will seal just fine. I place a dab or two on the ends of the mating surfaces of the seal to aid in sealing.

This is one of hundreds of tools specially made for my engine building. These two chrome posts allow me to slide the rear main seal down squarely and exactly in position.

If you are using studs for the mains, You will have to notch the aluminum housing like this to avoid interference.

Now it is time to install the six side bolts for the main bearing caps. Use ARP assembly lube on the threads and torque in two incraments of two until you reach  45ft. lbs.

Spirolox are a real pain to install. It could be even worse if you have to remove them. Double check your work before beginning.

Now it is time to wash the pistons first in detergent then lacquer thinner. Blow them dry. I install the spirolocs in the piston groove on one side first. Then I lube the pin boses. I lube the wrist pin and small end of the connecting rod and assemble them. Remember that the intake valve notch faces the intake side of the engine and the number on the connecting rod faces the exhaust side of the engine. Then install the remaining two spirolox and this assembly is finished.

Hemis have a palm push fit for the wrist pin. The bore specs on both piston and rod will be in the book by Hemihaines. I have the pin bores measured at the machine shop. A lot of the time the bores are not acceptible for the street. I've returned a piston or two over the years because the bore was .0002 too big past acceptable limits. In a street engine, it may tend to knock. Street engine differ from race engines. So do the clearances.

Lets install the pre fit rings on the pistons at this time starting with the oil ring expander first. Make sure the ends butt together and not overlap. The piston manufacture usually colors them is two contrasting colors for ease of seeing them. These are black and white.

Then I wind the stainless steel oil scrapers next starting with the bottom on first. Make sure to stagger the end gaps by one inch in opposite directions, facing away from the center expander ring.

Install the next two pre filed fit rings with the lower one first. Ring manufactures stress that the be installed in a certain direction. Go by their recomendations. We don't want to install one upside down.

Stagger the ring end gaps 180 degrees whenever possible to minimize blow by and loss of power and oil consumption. Coat the skirts with GM'S EOS assembly oil. It has a anti-scuff property that aids in initial start up. Do not soak the rings in oil They do not run in oil so don't install them in oil. Simply spray WD-40 on the rest of the ring pack and install in the ring compressor.

Nothing will make the job easier than a fixed ring compressor.

Apply assembly lube to the bearing surface and the sides of the rod also.

Turn the crankshaft so that the perspective journal is in the lowest position before installing the assembly. I always clean the bore one last and final time with a white paper towel and lacquer thinner. Then quickly smear a light film of GM's EOS on the cylinder wall. This lube keeps the cylinder wall protected from piston skirt scuffing during start up. Slowly and deliberatly lower the connecting rod through the bore until the ring compressor lays flat on the deck.

Once the ring compressor is flat on the deck, tap it so that the oil ring is just about to leave the tool and whack it with a stiff blow and follow through. We do not like to have the piston slow down on the installation and get hung up and stop. If so remove and repeat only after making sure the rings are in the correct position.

I continue to tap the top of the piston the rest of the way down after the ring compressor is removed. Slow down and make sure as the big end of the connecting rod nears the journal and help it into position with your other hand.

Now flip the block over and work from the bottom. Apply liberal amount of assembly lube to the connecting rod cap bearing and it's sides. Hand fit the cap onto the rod and make sure there is CMD extreme pressur lube #9 on the threads and finger tighten.

I hand tighten the bolts at this point. Rotate the crankshaft after each piston is installed. This will assure there is no binding. If binding occures, stop and resolve any or all issues. I install all 8 piston/ rod assemblies before I torque the first one.

First I torque all the connecting rod bolts to 30ft. lbs. As I do each one, I rotate the assembly and check for binding. There should be none. The next step is to continue the tightening process with a torque/ angle guage.

After the torque is at 30 ft. lbs. You turn the bolt in the same direction another 60 degrees. This is the most accurate way to install these bolts. Friction is so great under these ARP 2000 bolts that just an torque reading would be false. The angle guage allows the friction to increase and still follow through to the proper stretch.

Flip the block over and look at the enourmous dome above the deck on the street Hemi pistons. These are 11:1 from Diamond.

Next to a gear drive, The Australian made Rollmaster timing chain is the highest quality piece available. Note the torrington bearing on the back of the cam sprocket. No friction here. 9 Keyways make for easy cam degreeing.

Go ahead and install the degree wheel and find top dead center. Do this by stopping the piston .010 from the top of its stroke and writing that number down, then continuing past top dead center until you have .010 past top dead center. Write that number down. In the middle of these measurements is TDC. Move the pointer to this new location at TDC.

Now install a dummy lifter in the number one intake lifter bore. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the dial indicator falls to the lowest point and zero it out. Make sure it is in a straight line from top to bottom. Then continue to rotate in the same direction until the dial indicator starts to rise and stop at .050  At this point look at the degree wheel and note the degrees.

At this point the degree wheel reads 9 degrees before top dead center. When I check the timing of events to the cam card, this is the exact number to indicate that the camshaft is degreed in exact syncronization with the crankshaft. Depending on what of how you want the engine to respond, adjustments can be made by advancing the camshaft or retarding it as much as 8 degrees. Do not exceed 8. Also moving the camshaft as much as 8 degrees will raise or lower the power band by 400 RPM.  Moving the camshaft in the advanced direction will close the intake valve earlier and allow the cylinder pressure to build sooner and will produce a higher cranking compression. This fools the engine to think it has more camshaft and will have a greater low end torque. Now, retarding the camshaft will have just the opposite effect. It will have less cranking compression but the trade off is that the speed at which the events are happening, it reaches a point that the upper RPM range will begin to benefit because the cylinder pressure will build at a higher RPM. This will allow the engine to rev very high and have its power band higher in the RPM range. Any questions will be covered in great detail in my upcoming book. Always correct the camshaft timing against the cam card on the closing event of the intake cycle. Degreeing the cam with a-symmetrical lobes is impossible because they have a slower closing ramp speed to avoid valve bounce. The distance on the opening side of the ramp is shorter than the closing side. So, It's centerline in not straight up as once thought.

Just to side bar for a second. If you have built an engine and the power band is not where it should be based on the gear ratio and tire size and you notice the engine surging, this could be corrected by degreeing the camshaft  further.

The camshaft dictates how the engine breathes. An experienced engine builder can totally change how the engine performs through camshaft degreeing. We have seen 16:1 compression Hemi engines in street engines run on pump gas through bleeding off cylinder pressure at low RPM.

Now that the camshaft is degreed in, install the three mounting bolts with red loctite and torque to correct value.

If a roller camshaft is being used, install a cam button. This controls forward motion of the camshaft. The timing chain controls the rearward movement of the cam, but the button butts up against the timing cover to eliminate forward movement.

Hydraulic camshafts do not need this button. The slight angle ground into the lobes always forces the camshaft rearwards as it is turning so the timing chain will control that rearward movement.

If using the button, put a small bit of modeling clay on the front and install the timing chain cover, then remove.

I do this to verify how much gap is between the button and the cover. What was missing from the equation was the thickness of the gasket. So, we take the thickness of the clay plus the thickness of the gasket and this is how much we need to dimple the timing cover to hold this thing from moving. If it moves at all, the timing mark will move around because the camshaft is moving forward and backwards and you'll wonder why. This is how we correct this.

Install your oil slinger and silicone the gasket and lets install the timing cover.

Put a thin bead of red silicone around the inside of the timing cover and install it as shown. Tap it into place evenly until it bottoms out.

Install new bolts and torque to correct values.

Flip the engine over so the bottom side is up. Use thread sealant in the threads and install the correct(for your pan) pick up tube. I screw it in all the way and then some. You will need to check clearance between the bottom of the pick up and the bottom of the oil pan being used. I like a good 1/4" of space. At this time check to make sure the gap between the connecting rod and the pick up tube is at least .060" Anything less will expand and eventually hit, causing a lot of trouble.

Windage trays were used on all Street Hemis from the factory. They keep oil from coming up from the sump and slowing down the crankshaft  during heavy hard acceleration. They all need a little modification for a perfect fit. Make sure the correct tray is used with the correct stroke or it will hit.

This is the area need to be checked for no interference between the connecting rods and the windage tray.

Making sure this is the right pan for the appication and the pickup to bottom of pan clearance is adequate, install the pan using silicone between the gaskets, block and pan. Screw them down evenly and slowly bring torque values up to 175 in.lbs. in a criss- X- cross pattern starting in the center of the pan and working outwards.

Install the Melling Hi-volume oil pump. I put little assembly oil inside so the suction will be greater when you prime the engine. ARP lube on the threads and torque to correct value.

I like to use Stage V aluminum cylinder heads. These heads on the street will out flow any other casting Mopar ever had. These have already been through the machine shop. Receiving the works. Light pocket and bowl blending, guides and seats cut. (see Hemi Videos) competition valve job with all installed heights and spring pressures corrected. Make sure that springs match the rate for the camshaft. Don't go by the saying,"there good up to .600 lift" This is usually wrong spring for your application.

Inner head studs must have thread sealant put on and then installed. Install them tight.

I put some modeling clay on the side/tops of the pistons in this place. I will lay the head gasket on and lay the head assembly on and squish the clay to measure for piston to head clearance.

I use a couple of fastners to pull the head down tight to the block. Spray a little WD-40 in the chamber so the clay will not stick. Then remove the head.

Now the clay has made the impression of the head. I take a measurement by either using the leg of a dial caliper or use feeler guages.

Here is .100 of feeler guages just to show I have ample room between the two. It is now safe to resume assembly of the heads.

 

Before installing the heads permanently, install the head on the deck surface and check to see if they lay flat. If the locating dowels are keeping the head from going all the way down, remove the heads and tap the locating dowels further into the block and recheck.

A thin bead of silicone around these water outlets on both sides and ends will assure no leaks. Wipe the head and deck surface with lacquer thinner then set them on.

The inner studs will guide you in until you reach the dowel pins. These inner studs are canted at an angle.

With ARP lube on the threads install the remainder of the head studs finger tight. Do not tighten them! They are suppose to remain loose.

Rocker arm assemblies can now be lowered into place. Note the purple anodized aluminum rocker stands and Stage V roller rockers.

Using liberal amounts of ARP assembly lube, put it on the threads of the studs, both sides of the washers and under the head of the nuts. Bring them down tight with a speed wrench for now.

All cylinder heads have to be torqued in a sequence to compress the head gasket effeciently. Using the three step process start at 45 ft. lbs. on all the nuts then go to the other side then go up to 65 ft. lbs then 85 ft.lbs.

Because no torque wrench will work on the inner studs,The old School approach to the inner stud was to get a feel for the torque and guess at it and hope for the best. Now tool manufactures have made these torque adapters. Because of the distance the torque wrench is away from the nut/bolt, you must apply 80% of correct value to be correct. So the inner nuts would be torqued at 36ft.lbs then 52ft.lbs then 68ft. lbs. For the Hemi engine this was a great investment.

Install the lifters at this time. If they are flat tappet, put moly lube on the bottoms and a light oil on the body so it will spin in the bore as soon as it starts. If it does not spin, it will fail. If it is a roller tappet, light oil on the body and Assembly oil on the fulfrum or pin of the roller. Regular oil on the lobes.

Now I remove the rocker arm shafts, rockers and springs by loosening the stand bolts and slide them out. This allows me to correct the pushrod centering in the hole of the head and space the rockers latterely. This takes time but must be done to insure correct valvetrain geometry.

Lube the inside bore of the rocker arm with Torco assembly lube. Summerge the roller end in oil before assembly. I don't show pictures of the rocker arm alignment. But keep the pushrod centered in the hole.

This blurry picture show the pushrod centered in the hole. This is corrected by using spacers between the stand and rocker to change the relationship laterely.

 

Now I like to check clearance between the valve and the piston. Find the closest point between the piston and valve and check it. Use a weak spring to do this. I like to have .100" on the intake side and .140" on the exhaust side.

Once the valvetrain is spaced and corrected, you install the pushrods. Oil in the cups and on the ball end. Adjust the preload on the hydraulic lifter with one full turn on the adjuster screw which equals .030 and lock them down. Allow only two threads below the rocker for two reasons. Strength and pushrod oiling. If you have more or less than two threads, oiling will not be suffecient and will burn the pushrod oiling cup.

Torque the stand bolts to correct value after you put anti-sieze on the threads. Steel into aluminum needs anti-seize.

 

This is a shot of how the Stage V roller rockers ride on the valve stem. This is as good as it gets.

If you look closely, you can see the snap ring just below the top of the lifter. The distance under the snap ring and the pushrod cup seat is the .030" of preload needed.

An airiel view of this mechanical marval in all of its glory.

If running a roller camshaft, You'll need to install an aluminum-bronze drive gear. Don't try to use the steel gear.

 

 

Now it is time for the intake manifold. I use the top fuel end seals. They are longer and can be cut to correct length and on an angle like they should be. As shown in photo, this is a great way to seal the intake. A thin bead of silicone between gaskets and on the ends. The four stud aid in lowering the intake squarely. I prefer that it be done in one shot. No movement.

Simply great, with this as a helping hand.

With anti-sieze on all the threads of these 16 intake bolts, simply screw them in until they contact the intake. This is a Stage V intake manifold. I believe to be the best Street Hemi Intake out there. The fuel distribution from the primaries to the intake valves are equal in length on all eight cylinders. Hoo- da-thunk-it!

Intake manifold tightening sequence is strange. The four center bolts on each side is torqued to 72 in. lbs.  The four outside bolts on each side is torqued to 48 in. lbs. You must travel back and forth from side to side in a working from the center out pattern changing torque values until complete. I repeat this process as many as ten times and still it will do down a little more. Even the next day before paint, it will go down a bit more. This is my son Andy performing this tedious task. He is a warm welcoming addition to Hemihaines.com  How do you think all of these pictures are taken? Does he seem young to you? He has watched me all of his 17 years and often will remind me to not skip a step. Way to go Andy.

Long block assembly awaiting paint. In Florida, You can paint anyday. Any silicone found weeping out from under any gasket is carefully removed. The block and heads are sprayed with a wax and grease remover to aid in good paint adhesion.

Guys love to paint. All men will volunteer to work with a spray gun at anytime. this time is no exception. I use Dupont single stage Centari paint with a gloss hardener to resist heat. I have been using this for 34 years with never having a paint related issue. It will not discolor or peal off. It is all in the prepwork. Cleanliness. Do not contaminate surfaces during assembly. Wear gloves and keep it clean.

I apply one misting coat and two medium coats. That's all. Allow to dry for two days before handling.

I spray it upside down to start with each coat. Then turn it over and paint the top. Then flip it over for the second coat. Allow twenty minutes between coats. In the background you can see how you paint the waterpump housing. Separetely. Paint the backside first then flip it over.

Two days later, this is how I handle the engine without scratching it. Again, I make the carts custom to the application of oilpan. This particular cart has seen over 43, 426 Hemi engines on it.

Next install a SFI Harmonic Balancer often refered to as a damper. I prefer the thin style. It is lighter in reciprocating weight and allows the use of 440 style pulleys that are much cheaper.

Two things to notice here. The damper is set at 12 degrees BTDC and this will stay her until firing. Second is the mechanical fuelpump. If it is a roller camshaft, it will require a brass tipped fuel pump pushrod. Silicone dressing on the gasket and sealant on the threads.

Install the correct valve covers for the year of the car or application. This car is a 69'    Uses correct fasteners on the valve covers

The Edelbrock 600 cfm carburetors and MSD distributor is installed. Yes, those are Zoomies bolted to the heads.

Correct texture on the valve covers and the chrome PCV valve.

Wired, plumbed and ready to fire. Note the adapter on the front of the engine to allow the water to circulate through the engine for cooling. I control the temperature at 180 degrees during camahaft break-in.

This has been a general guide to build a 426 Hemi engine. For more technical specifications, assembly techniques, and parts interchange look for the book due out later this year titled How to build Hemi engines By Hemihaines.

 

 

This is a 426 Hemi block that was cast on January 18, 1966  See the next photo.

 

 

This is the same block as pictured above. This date of Feburary 21,1966 was the day all of the machining at the facility was done. See the next photo.

 

 

This is the same block listed in the above photos. The B stands for a 1966 model year. The H stands for HEMI  The 426 stands for the cubic inch of the engine. The Maltese cross stands for all of the mains are .001" undersize from the factory. The 426 Hemis all were. You will also see the WT which stands for water test. Sometimes it can be stamped backwards as TW

I want you to pay attention to the row of numbers at the bottom. The 2 stands for the month of Feburary. The 24 stands for the 24th day of the month and the last number stands for the number of engines produced that particular day.

It you pay attention, this engine block was cast on the 18th of January. Machined on the 21st of February and assembled on the 24th of February. Forget those stories that Chrysler burried the blocks for 6 months in the dirt to cure them before machining. Here is your proof that is not the case.

A warranty block will have a blank pad on the front of the engine's china wall but will have WT or TW stamped in it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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