HEMI Engine Photo Gallery | Engine Restoration Photos
Browse the collection of photos below for hemi engine restoration and related projects from the past and present.
This is a picture of a blown 392 Hemi I built. I am running it for the customer. Mike, (the man in pink), is the director of launch control at Kennedy Space Center. His personal crew chief (Bob) watches as the cam break-in progresses. They are watching the oil pressure at 80 lbs and manifold vacuum. That's right, I said vacuum. It is until you open the butterflies that allows the boost to build. This set up is for 8 lbs of boost. The blower cannot push compressed heated air into the intake, until the throttle is opened. March 2006
This is the Blown 392 Hemi that I bought from "Big Daddy" and I built it myself. I have my son Andy, sit next to it, to show you how big it is. This was my first supercharged Hemi. It was a little different than the naturally aspirated version. I built a lot of 392's that were naturally aspirated so I spent a lot of time researching "how to supercharge" before I started. I had some help from Don Garlits on this one. He lives 2 hours from me in Ocala. He's had a lot of experience with superchargers. Right! This particular Hemi was an idea that I thought up one day. I called a few people and asked around and left it at that. One night we all were sitting at the dinner table and the phone rang and it was Don Garlits. My wife said, "Eddie it's Don Garlits and he wants you". We talked for a while, then I went over and bought it . The rest now, is history.
This engine was sold to a good customer in California. This is a Stage V Hemi. This is an old school approach to determine if things are OK. I'm using my senses to check how the engines is running. I use SMELL, TEMP and PUSH exiting the pipes. Smell tells me if it is rich or lean. Temp tells me if the timing is retarded or advanced and Push is how much cam is in the motor. I have the professional tools to do the job, and I use them as we go. And,God gave me the same ones with a brain attached. Knowing your way around one of these is, priceless.
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This is a 426 Cross Ram Hemi that I am running for a good customer of mine. Again it is warming up and will run for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Then the timing is set and the carburetors are dialed in. I fabricated the linkage to be used with Edelbrock carburetors. Stage V heads prepared By John Arruzza. This eventually will be installed in a '68 cuda, currently under restoration.
This is the same 426 Hemi with the Cross Ram Intake manifold. Different angle. This picture shows the special adapter I use to run water through the engine. You can see water exiting the hose in the background.
This is an Hemi engine that belonged to Don Garlits. It was his personal car. I restored it to original condition. It is a '69 426 Hemi.
This is an example of how well the carburetors are restored. These original Carters are expensive. Everything is re-plated and restored to better than new appearance and working condition. Missing from photo are the fuel filters.
This is not a clear picture. It does show the linkage that is properly plated and what to expect if I restore you carburetors.
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This is a rare set of Norris Roller Rockers. They are expensive and very accurate. I have found them to be very sought after.
This is the most accurate way to torque a bolt. It is the torque/ angle method. You must follow manufactures suggestions because they all have different values and angles. These rod bolts on these K1 H-beam rods, are torqued to 35 ft lbs, then turned another 60 degrees in the same direction. Torquing alone is inaccurate. Friction generated under the head of the bolt will give you an inaccurate torque reading. Just for fun, if you torqued a bolt only, you would find it is not as tight as the torque/ angle method. If you don't stretch the bolt to the proper length, it won't hold with the proper clamping force.
This is a picture of 2 connecting rods showing the side clearance when you use K1 rods. A mere .009 K1 holds the tightest machining accuracy in the business. Anything over .017 is ridiculous. I have bought and returned rods that exceeded .045 What were they thinking.That is oil being thrown around inside the crankcase and on the cylinder walls. Then, the oil rings are trying to control it. Not a good idea on the street.
I add a windage tray to all my Hemi engines. They came that way from the factory. I modify the return area, for a quicker return rate.( not pictured).
All rings are file fit. This means that I buy the rings .005 oversize, then file fit them to the bore. It a slow process, but the rewards are less blow-by, more compression and lower oil consumption.
This is a tool I made for installing a piston ring down 1 inch in the bore. This placement is important. Squaring the ring in the bore for proper ring end gap measurement.
This is an example of how important ring end gap and squareness is. This is the second cast ring held at .020 Top Moly rings are held at .018
All camshafts are degreed in during assembly. Proper cam phasing is crucial for maximum power output. Don't rely on the dot to dot theory. I have my cam grinder add 4 degrees of advance to the cam when it is ground. Then, based on how the engine is used, I would install it advanced for more bottom end, or retarded for more top end rpm or simply install it straight up. Changing this relationship can raise or lower the power band by 200 rpm for every 4 degrees in either direction. I wouldn't exceed 8 degrees in any one direction.
Having a 9 keyway crank sprocket allows easy camshaft degreeing. This is a rollmaster unit with a Torrington bearing on the backside of the Cam sprocket.
This engine looks like an original 426 Hemi engine. It is an aftermarket block with Stage V aluminum heads. It has an Stage V aluminum Intake manifold with two Edelbrock Carburetors. Mallory Unilite ignition. The parts in these newer Hemis are superior to 40 year old castings. The Hemi under this picture is a 1969 426 Hemi that is all original that I restored.
This original 426 Hemi uses the thick style balancer. Notice the original Carter carburetors, intake and cast iron exhaust manifolds. It uses modern Electronic Ignition
This original 426 Hemi is currently running at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes for the cam to break-in. Afterward the timing will be set and the Carburetors will be dialed in. I start all of my Hemis up on this cart.
This is a 392 Hemi I restored back in 1998. I pull it from a local salvage yard. It was in a Imperial Southampton. The picture isn't clear. It is museum perfect.
Lowering the idle on Hemi number 29.
I am posed behind a 1969 426 Hemi that I restored. This was a nut and bolt restoration.
This picture was taken in 1984. It was a drag racing Hemi. Note the 12 qt oil pan that the center link ran through. Milodon oiling system. Keith Black Valve covers.
Typically, this is what is used in all my latest Hemi engines. JE 10 1/2 to 1 forged pistons and K1 H-beam connecting rods with ARP 2000 bolts.
This was my first 426 Hemi that I owned and built to run in a 1968 Cuda. We drag raced it for one season. 12 1/2 to 1, Crower Roller Cam, two 1050 Dominator carbs. Hooker 2 1/4 Headers. It ran 9.80 in the quarter mile.
This picture shows proper placement of the standard tension oil ring expander. 
Tapered ring compressors are the only safe way to go. They make piston installation simple. What you can't see in the picture, is the correct placement of where the ring end gaps are. This is crucial. If they all line up, You'll have blow-by and compression will be low or oil in the combustion chamber will result.
This Hemi was set up to run in a 68 Mercury Cougar Funny Car. It used a funny car pan with Milodon oiling system. 12 1/2 to 1 compression. It made one pass and proved to be a worthy engine but not a safe vehicle.
This is a Stage V aluminum cylinder head with billet aluminum rocker arm stands. Hard chrome shafts and Indy roller rockers at 1.6 ratio. Truly state of the art pieces.
This is a Stage V head with a Smith Brothers push rod showing itself centered in the push rod hole. Note the rubber o-ring in the spark plug hole. This solves the oil running into the combustion chamber when you remove the spark plug. Only a Hemi engine owner can appreciate this. 
This is the Funny Car Hemi that I brought to Florida. I showed it at the Turkey Rod Run that year.
A typical Hemi engine turned upside down before painting.
My dad posed next to the Funny Car Hemi in Florida. It was all those years ago that he exposed me to these Hemi engines. If it wasn't for him, I would not of had a life long opportunity to build and work on the greatest engine ever developed.Thanks, DAD 
Later Hemi Days 2004 This is a 528 aluminum headed Hemi
Ira and myself getting ready for another typical Hemi firing.
This is an Mopar Performance Aluminum headed Hemi. With an original inline Hemi Intake Manifold. It cost $1000.00 for that manifold on this engine. Now they are $400.00 Made by Edelbrock but sold through Mopar.
This is a 1969 426 Hemi before I restored it. This is typically how they come in. They leave looking much different.
This is a Cross Ram 426 Hemi. I built this for a customer. The Stage V heads here are prepared by John Arruzza.
This picture shows the Hemi running. Note the SFI chrome damper behind the pulley.
This Hemi is warming up to temp. It is also going through the camshaft break-in process. It will stay here for 20 minutes, then timing and carburetors will be dialed in.
This is a 392 Hemi Block. I am torquing the main caps to final torque values. Note the studs. This allows greater clamping force. Being a two bolt main design, studs are mandatory.
This the final product. A blown 392 Hemi. It has just finished running . The blower shop provides the 6-71 huffer. It is 50% underdriven. The exhaust temps ran over 800 degrees. 
This is a modern aftermarket 426 Hemi block. I feel these are superior to older castings. They are beefier and infinitely stronger. Look at the tops of the 10.5 to 1 forged pistons. They protrude 1/2" above the deck. Not to worry, it runs on pump gas.
This is a Mopar Performance Aluminum head, with Dick Landy's roller Rockers. These are investment grade stainless steel. I always use ARP heads studs.
Solving potential head gasket failure. I do this so the head gasket doesn't leak. Note the finish in the bores and beefier material around the lifter bores.
Mopar Performance Aluminum Cylinder Head. They eventually went to Edelbrock for a better quality part. Hemis have an installed spring height of 1.86" You can see the spring cups ( mandatory on aluminum heads ), chrome moly retainers, stainless steel valves and 8 degree locks. I set seat pressure at 120lbs and open at 300lbs on most flat tappet hydraulic Camshafts. Although, some require more. I respect the Cam grinder, and follow their recommendation.
This is a mechanic nightmare. The famous valve train. Here it is in all it's glory. You need to know what your doing here. Note the four studs in the valley area, clamping the head to the block. This stud attaches from the underside of the intake port. If you look closely, you can see the top of the stud in the floor of the intake port.
Me, (Hemihaines) posed behind a 426 Hemi. Yes, All Hemi engines come in the house after firing, and according to my wife and friends, they are pieces of art. They remain under plastic wrap until they are sold.
Notice the clear hose exiting out from the side of the block. This is to drain all the water out of the block after firing. They are on both sides. You can see the water hose in the background, from which the water exits out of the engine, as it is running. The top of the hose in the background is higher than the highest part of the engine, to make sure that the block stays full of water at all times. I am setting the timing also. Total advance is set at 36 degrees.
This picture shows me using a digital photo tachometer. A tiny piece of reflective tape on the balancer reflects light back to the tool every time it passes by. This allows me to accurately set the RPM for proper camshaft break-in at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes.
Here I'm using a digital Infared thermometer to monitor exhaust temperatures. They run about 600 degrees naturally aspirated.
This is a customers 402 crate engine. We suspected that it might need to be taken apart. I'm glad I did. It had numerous problems and would of run for only a few minutes. I went through it, and it is back where it needs to be. Perfect. The old appearing exhaust manifolds were just to fire up the engine. Again, if it is in the house, it has already been run.
This is a customers Hemi before it was painted.
This is the same Hemi engine after being painted. It was painted without the intake manifold. I rarely do that but it was necessary for this application.
This is a customer's Hemi going through the assembly stages. Note that the carburetors are tied together on this engine. This is a Stage V intake. You must tie the carburetors together. The reason is because of the design of the manifold. The distance between the primaries and the intake valves is the same on all eight cylinders. This offers more equal fuel distribution through out the entire rpm range. It has incredible torque as a result.
This customer's Hemi was shipped to Canada. He is very happy to find a Hemi and is very pleased with it. It now resides in a '68 GTX.
Customer's Hemi awaiting the air cleaner. When a Stage V intake is used, I must fabricate an air cleaner base. The spacing between the carburetors is greater than standard. I still use the standard lid for the Hemi.
Don't forget moly lube on the intermediate shaft. Very important during break-in and initial fire up.
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Restoration of HEMI and WEDGE Engines for American Muscle MOPAR Cars
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