"... The build was beyond my expectations in every way ... Your attention to detail borders on obsession or is that a passion for your love of all things HEMI.", Jeff Hamilton
"... The Hemi started and ran flawlessly!! I am the proud owner of a "Hemihaines" built engine. ... A Eddie Haines Hemi will exceed your expectations!!!!", Butch Verbeck
"I have just entered a car show in my area and the talk was, "where did you find that Hemi"? Of course I said, 'It was built by Mr Eddie Haines himself'.", Jay Kroess
"He is the most Professional, "stick to the word" person, I have ever had the pleasure of dealing with!!", Lee & Karen Prather
"I know and trust Eddie to do the very best job possible. I highly recommend Eddie Haines...", Dewey Parks
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First I like to start off with an A-1 casting. There is a lot of speculation as to the uniqueness of the castings. I just like keeping up with the myth. I believe they are about the same as HH blocks. The appearance of the HH block is actually nicer. The HH blocks were believed to be a thinner wall castings to reduced weight. Sonic testing has proved over end over this is not true. If you have an HH block casting, go ahead and use it in good faith.
Now you have some choices here at Hemihaines. I can leave the outside of the block as cast. Most people leave it this way.
Or Hemihaines can smooth the outside of the block to give it a more warm rich ringing wet look. The difference is amazing. This is a 354 Hemi block.
Now, you have the option of ARP main studs or use upgraded ARP bolts. Both are sufficient and will hardly never fail. Why? These blocks are a great design and very stiff. You never heard of block failures on Early Hemis. A bad connecting rod maybe but not the block.
Before we clean the engine for final assembly, I suggest that all holes in the block are tapped. This ensures the bolts will give accurate torque readings instead of binding prematurely.
Now we wash the block inside and out with Dawn dish detergent. It has an remarkable ability to float dirt and debree off of surfaces. Over the years, I have aquired the exact size small brushes to pass through every hole in the entire block. This ensures the passages are clear and clean. I use my hand along with the detergent so not to have additional pieces of a brush or sponge break off and potentially get caught inside. I guess I like to keep it simple. And it is effective.
Pressure wash the inside and outside of the block thoroughly. I repeat this process several times to insure it is clean. I spray WD-40 on the block before it has the chance to dry. WD-40 will disperse the water before it has a chance to flash rust. The bores are wiped with lacquer thinner on a white paper towel several times until clean. You must use WD-40 inbetween. Allow to air dry for about an hour. I can't show you the pictures because I can't do all of that and take the pictures at the same time.
I have some very small air hoses that are 1/8" in outside diameter that I use to blow all passages clean. This hose goes up inside all the tiny passages. Blow all bolt holes clean and allow the debris to fall away from the clean block even if it means turning the block upside down and doing it upside down. Do not allow it to contaminate the clean surfaces. The VW squareback in the background has a Hemi in it.
Install the core freeze plugs at this time. These disc style plugs require a ballpeen hammer being hit by a second hammer to collaps the inside to spread it outwards. Notice the stampings on the bottom of the oil pan rail. When these engines were assembled, going down the assembly line, the man installing the pistons in the bore would look at these letters and grab the piston and rod assembly and put the corrosponding piston in that particular bore. They were all about .0005 different and could be lettered A,B,C, and D. It was crude but it worked. Today we machine each bore to the exact diameter needed for each set of pistons. Have the pistons checked. They do differ from one another sometimes. The pistons are barrel ground with the widest dimension above the lowest point of the skirt but below the oil ring groove. the manufacture recommends where to measure dimensionally.
Always wear safety glasses. Whenever possible use a softer material hammer to hit so it won't splinter and cause an injury. Start in the middle and work your way outward in a small circle, until done.
On the back of the block, on the drivers side, you must install a 3/8" pipe plug up inside of the block. (shown in blue). This is located just in front of the intermediate shaft bushing. If you forget this plug, you will have a massive internal oil leak that will lead to no or low oil pressure. This pipe plug seals the oil galley on that side. Use thread sealant also.
This is the outside of the rear of the block. The pipe plug on the left is the one I mentioned earlier, that inside ahead of that plug, about 2" further inside, needs to be plugged. Don't forget it!!!! Call me.
Install new oil bypass diverter valve. Do not use the old unit that was in the engine originally. This is to make sure that the oil goes through the oil filter before entering the block. They cost $13.00 Installs o-ring down.
Now we get the camshaft ready for installation. First we wash the outside with a solvent and make sure we don't scrub anything off that is purposely put on there. Special moly lube goes on the lobes(all the way around) and assembly oil on the journals. I use Torco assembly lube.
Reach up inside of the block and coat the cam bearing surfaces with the assembly oil. I have a special long handle to install the camshaft in the block. Keep it straight and do not force. I have always found, if you lift harder on the rear of the tool, it helps keep it level. Slowly slide it in. Be careful not to nick the bearing surface.
Once you reach the final journal and it actually goes in the hole, turn it slightly and make sure it turns freely. If it does not turn, remove it and find out what is causing the problem. I find most of the time it is a bearing out of round. You can fix this by installing the camshaft dry and turning it slightly and it will mark the bearing where it needs to be clearanced. Clearance it by scraping the surface with a x-acto knife. A spot as small as a pin point can keep this thing from going in.
Once the camshaft is in and turns freely, attach the plate with the four attaching bolts. This plate controls the fore and aft movement of the camshaft. Torque to correct value. In the picture you will see a ring around the snout. This is a very important piece. This must be installed in this direction. It has a taper to it. The taper side goes toward the engine. This is a spacer from which the timing chain rests againsts. Install key in keyway.
This is how it should look now. The camshaft is always installed first because, if it will not turn and you have to make corrections or even take it back to the machine shop, it is a lot easier at this point.
Now, we wipe the backside of the main bearings clean with lacquer thinner to remove all contaminates. There are upper and lower halves in the set. Install the upper half at this time. These are usually the ones with the oil hole in them. Don't be surprised if yours have the hole in both halves. Clean the saddles in the block as well with lacquer thinner and a white paper towel. Install them with the tang side first and slide the bearing into place and make sure it has a preload on it. It should has a feeling that it is tight going in.
This is a shot of the bearings coated with Torco assembly lube. Make sure that the center thrust bearing has lube on the thrust sides. This thrust bearing controls for and aft movement of the crankshaft. Never let it start up dry. Clearances would quickly increase and damage the bearing then the crankshaft.
It is now time to install the rear main seal in the block and the rear main cap. This can be installed either way. Correct or incorrect. The object for the rear main seal is to keep oil from passing to the outside. If you have it installed correctly, it will keep oil inside and not allow oil to pass. If installed incorrectly oil will surely leak right pass and you'll be mad.
This is how the seal will look when installed properly. I use copper RTV silicone under the seal to prevent any possible leaks. Some people stagger the seals parting line. I don't.. Now that silicone has been mastered for oil resistance, use BLACK ULTRA.
Now we wash the machined,balanced crankshaft thoroughly. Just because it looks clean don't mean anything. I run pressurized lacquer thinner through the oil holes and a stiff wire brush. I quickly coat it with WD-40 to prevent flash rust. Before you lower the crankshaft into the block, make sure you apply a small amount of oil to the knurled portion of the crankshaft where the seal rides. If you forget, it will seize to the shaft and spin and self destruct.
I lower the crankshaft slowly down in a controlled manor and install it parallel to the block. Do not nick a bearing or the thrust bearing while doing this. As of this point do not spin the crankshaft. My reason is because I apply a small drop of silicon to the mateing edges of the rear main seal to prevent leaks. If you spin the crankshaft now, the oil that you applied to the knurled portion may and will end up on this area.
This is a machined main cap. It is machined because I believe that most all engines could use a align honing or align boring to insure it is perfectly concentric. We machine a few thousands off the cap, reinstall it and maching the bore back to the proper size for efficient bearing crush. We also can control the clearances between the shaft and bearing at this time if needed. How you ask. Buy My upcoming book on, How to build Hemi engines by Hemihaines.
Apply generous amount of Torco assembly lube to the bearing surface. When you install them, make sure you install them in the proper order they belong. 1,2,3,4,and 5. You also match up the tangs to be on the same side. These tangs keep the bearing positioned latterly and does not keep it from spinning. Bearing crush does that.
When installing the main bolts(or any) never install them dry. Frictional forces will give you a premature torque load. Always have 30w oil in the hole at least or ARP assembly lube on the threads and especialy under the head of the bolt. If you forget it under the head of the bolt, you will get a inaccurate torque reading. Put all bolts on their perspective holes and begin to bring them down. A half a turn at a time per side. Once you have them all down, wedge a stout screwdriver between the block and crankshaft throw weight and force the crankshaft toward one direction. This will set the thrust bearing in place. The lower half of the number three cap has a little bit of movement and by putting pressure against one side, this pushes the bearing surfaces evenly to one side. Then tighted down the bolts with a fair amount of pull. Only at this point do I turn the crankshaft to make sure it is free to spin. This assembly lube will not allow it to spin a bunch of times once you stop. It is thick.
Now we can torque the bolts. I prefer the three step method of 25 lb increments. So, if my final torque value is 75ft. lbs. I would torque them all to 25ft. lbs. then go to 50ft. lbs. then a final value of 75ft.lbs. This technique has proven to allow the bolt to penetrate further in the hole and allow the bolt to stretch to it strongest point. Everytime I complete a set of torque values, I make sure the crankshaft spins freely. If it stops for some reason, you go back to your last step and find out why.
It is a responsible thing to have your Hemi rods rebushed and resized with new hardened bolts. This will assure your build is done properly. It adds a fews dollars to the project yet adds a piece of mind in insurance that it was done properly.
Now it is time to get the piston and rod assemblies ready for installation. Hemis have floating wrist pins. The long and short of it means, the machine shop does not have to put them on for you. You can do it yourself. Some piston manufactures have no front markings meaning they can be installed in either direction. Some have no marking, yet you know that the intake valve is bigger and it installs a certain way. Always remember that the connecting rod always faces the numbers toward the outside of the block or the exhaust side. And the intake valve notch faces toward the inside of the block.
If we don't already know if the oil ring is a standard oil control or light oil control, here is a simple way to tell. Install the corrogated oil ring expander in the bore and see if it stays. If you can make the ends butt together and it stay in the bore, you have standard oil tention rings. If it falls out of the bore or won't even stay there at all, it is a light tension and not prefered on the street. We want oil control on the street for sure. It robs a little power from the engine because it is a immediate drag on the cylinder walls, but it won't smoke. Drag racing, we don't care if it smokes as long as we end up at the end of the night, FIRST.
Next we want to make sure we have adequate ring end gaps. I prefer file fit. These are sold .005 oversize so you can hand gap the clearances. If you try this, make sure that the gaps are at least the minimun and are square and break the edges with a stone so not to scratch the wall. More on how to do this in the book by Hemihaines.
Now, we install the oil ring expander first and make sure the two ends don't overlap. The ring manufactures usually put a color plastic pieces so you can better see the ends.
Now we install the two stainless steel oil scrapers. I prefer to put the bottom one on first then the top one. Sometimes it starts off in that direction and it jumps off to the upper one. Either way get them on. I stagger all the end gap so that the expander is the one the scrapers are based off of. Place the end gaps at 1" apart from the expander in opposite directions. If this is hard to understand, buy the book.
Then we install the second ring next then the top compression ring. Ring manufactures send a flyer in with the ring set telling you how to install, like the dot on the ring faces up. Do not guess. It could be detramental to your build, and upsetting to tear this engine apart at a later date to correct this problem. Anytime there is an issue with the rings such as ring end gaps, style, type, or placement, STOP. It is much easier to fix things now than later. If you are unsure call me.
I clean the cylinder bore one more time with lacquer thinner and a white paper towel, then quickly coat the cylinder wall with a fine coating of GM's EOS assembly oil. This stuff is great at keeping the piston skirt from scuffing during initial start up
I also apply the same product to the skirt of the piston. Then I spray WD-40 on the ring pack and put it in the ring compressor. Remember, rings don't run in oil. Don't install then in oil. Oil has a cling property that once on a part it will attract more oil to cling. You could run the potential of having oil behind the rings and this would cause a hydraulic situation. This will accelerate ring wear is just a few moments.
I prefer the fixed bore ring compressor. If you add up all the sizes of fixed bore ring compressore needed for all these Hemi engines, I would have a pile a mile high. So, in some cases like this, I use a band type and hope for the best. It can have it's issues.
Apply the assembly lube to the bearing surface and spread evenly. Also coat the sides of the rods. They also need lube to prevent dry start up.
In this case I installed a couple of 3/8" clear tubes to aid in installation so I won't run the risk of scratching the journal on the crankshaft during installation.
I curve the hoses away from the center for a reason, when I go to install the pistons in the bore with the rod end first, these hoses keep the connecting rod from scratching the bore. It keeps it centered until it reaches the bottom.
With the ring compressor down tight against the deck, I tap the piston down until it is about 1/2" from entering the bore. I then give it a quick short blow in the center of the compressor and the piston/rod assembly has now entered the bore safely.
Now with the compressor out of the way, I can tap it the rest of the way down in the bore until it hits the bottom of the crankshaft journal.
Flip the engine block over and pull the clear hoses off the bolts.
Apply a liberal amount of assembly lube to the bearing surface and sides and install the connecting rod with numbers facing the same direction.
Apply ARP assembly lube to the threads and underside of nut and screw them on. Install two rods per journal then tighten. Only torque to correct value once both rods are in the same journal. This keeps the rods from trying to twist sideways.
Rotate the crankshaft everytime you install a piston/rod assembly. Be sure that the nuts are tight before doing so.
Only after all eight piston/rod assemblies are installed and everything rotates fine would I torque the connecting rod bolts to correct torque value. In increments of coarse.
By now you have all assemblies tight and flipped over and it will look like this.
Now it is time to install the timing chain. At this point line it up dot to dot and we will degree in the camshaft shortly.
Install degree wheel and find top dead center. I do this by using a dial indicator. I place the degree wheel on the crankshaft snout and turn the crank over until it appears to be at the top of it's stroke. I place a fixed base dial indicator up and rotate the crankshaft in a clockwise direction and stop short by .010 of the full stroke. I look at the wire I have installed and write this number down. Then turning the same direction, go past top dead center and stop when the dial indicator reads .010 going back down. I write this number down. In between these two numbers is top dead center.
Now, install a dummy lifter discarded from an old engine and install it in the number one intake lifter hole. I attach a fixed base dial indicator to the deck and lower the dial indicator so that it is in a straight line back down to the lifter. If it is cocked or crooked, it will give you a false reading. Turn the crankshaft in a clockwise direction and allow the lifter to lower to its lowest position in the bore and zero out the dial. Keep turing the crankshaft in a clockwise direction until the lifter starts rising and stop at .050 of lift and write it down. Match this number on the degree wheel to the cam card. The cam card will show numbers indicating how many degrees it should be at when you are at .050 of lift. To install the camshaft straight up, advance or retard the camshaft using the several keyway crank gear until these numbers are exact. Now, check the closing against the cam card. The most important event in a performance engine is the Intake closing. This event decides how quickly the cylinder will fill with incoming charge. I have found that this measurement with a dial indicator, will vary from the card a few degrees. I choose to correct at the intake closing to build cylinder pressure early. A experienced engine builder knows that not all camshaft lobes are symmetrical. Today's fancy grinds won't allow you to degree a camshaft in with the lobe centerline thoery. I'm saying that the lobes are not evenly spaced on the opening ramp to the centerline and back to the base circle. A- symmetrical lobes have a slower closing speed to avoid valve bounce. This makes them a-symmetrical and impossible to centerline.
Install the single camshaft bolt and fuel pump eccentric using red loctite on the bolt and torque to correct value.
Flip the engine short block assembly over and lets start installing the adapted 340 oil pump. You must use red loctite in the threads and torque to correct value.
Make sure this aluminum adapter slides down all the way into the register. If you look closely, Behind the aluminum adapter, I always have to machine the bolt/head and washer to allow for clearance between these two pieces. Nothing should bind and it should slowly lower into place. DO NOT force these parts together. Use red loctite and torque to correct value.
Always use thread sealant on the pipe threads and red loctite on oil pump mounting bolts. They are subjected to a lot of vibration.
At this point double check the rod side clearances. I prefer them to be .007 to .014 but anything over .017 is unacceptible. As you can see in the photo this engine is well within specs at .010 It is a good time to double check all torque values and retorque them and be sure.
Lets install the front timing cover seal. I put a thin layer of red silicone in the opening and drive it in squarely. When installed, The oil seal should be flush with the front of the cover. Install the oil slinger but be careful to use the correct one for the job. If you use a aluminum one such as this, the oil slinger is modified so it won't touch the backside of the timing cover once installed. Run a fine bead of black silicone on the flat surfaces of the cover and gasket and get ready to install it.
There are twp locating dowels on the block to align the cover exactly. Find these and tap the cover on squarely until it reaches bottom. This particular timing cover allows the usage of a big block Chevy water pump. The adapters are already attached to the timing cover. After installing the timing cover, I would check the top dead center against the balancer just to know that it is right. Find top dead center, then slide the balancer until it stops and see if it is right on the money.
Just about every bolt on a early Hemi engine enters into a water jacket, except the oil pan and the head bolts. Use thread sealant or it will leak. Torque all bolts to the correct torque value.
Install the front and rear end seals on the oil pan. I use a thin line of red silicone under these seals.
Lay down a thin line of red silicone on the block's oil pan mounting flange, and do so on the top of the gasket also.
Slowly lower the oil pan down onto the engine and do it in a fashion that it will be done in ONE motion. Do not move it around and allow the gasket to move or silicone to get all over the place. Install the 4 end bolts to hold it in place while the others are installed. Using a speed wrench, slowly tighten the bolts in a side to side motion, and move forward and backwards in an alternating pattern. The torque to a inch pound rating of 175. Watch to make sure gasket is not being squeezed out.
At this point we can say the short block is together.
I hand make a cart for each and every engine I build. They are different everytime. Some have the starter on the passengers side or it can be the drivers side. It can have a special oil pan. The list goes on and on. I like to get it down on the cart, because from here it only gets heavier.
Put a film of moly lube specially designed for this application on the bottom of the lifter. This lube is most important for initial start up. With out it, the lube would wear out almost immediatly.
Then put a thin 30wt motor oil on the body. Smear it all over the body but do not cross contaminate with the moly on the bottom. The thin oil allows the lifter to spin in the bore as soon as it starts up. If the lifter does not spin in the bore, it will fail. To create a wear pattern on the lobe and lifter bottom, it must spin. In my book out later this year, I will show you how to check each and every lifter to verify it spins in their bores. Install all 16 lifters at this time.
Make sure the distributor intermediate shaft gets a good coating of moly also. Then install it.
As far as the heads, we will assume that they are back from the machine shop with hardened exhaust seats installed, milled for flatness, stainless steel valves, updated guide liners, performance valve job and installed heights and seat pressures are correct. Before you install the heads on the block, set them on the block without a head gasket and make sure the heads do not bottom out on the locating dowels. If they do not sit flat down on the block, remove them and tap the locating dowel down and check again. Sometimes when the block gets decked for correctness, the machine shop installs them, but not deep enough in their perspective bores.
I install this style of head gaskets dry with this side up. I use BEST brand instead of Fel-Pro. They are cheaper and have better sealing quality. Clean both surfaces with a lint free paper towel and lacquer thinner for best adhesion. Do not be surprised if they weep a little water until they get hot and do their job, SEAL.
You'll notice that I piant Early Hemis when they are apart. This is the only way to completlely paint the underside of the heads and the top of the block before assembly. Lay both heads on the block and get ready for the most fun you have had in a long time.
Always put the assembly lube on the bottom of the pushrod before lowering it down into place. Install all 16 pushrods at this time.
These are adjustable pushrods. To ease installation, loosen all nuts and make sure all threads move freely. I use CMD extreme pressue lube #9 on the pushrod end going into the rockerarms.
Before I lower the rocker arm assemblies down onto the head, I place a dab of CMD extreme pressure lube #9 on the rockerarm pads. This eliminates scuffing. Crutial during initial start up.
I have already installed the rocker arm assemblies onto the heads. Each rocker arm stand has a locating dowel. this centers each stand correctly. Don't be surprised if one or more valves are trying to open as you screw the bolts down. Apply ARP lube under the bolt heads and some on the threads. Important for correct bolt stretch by torqueing to correct value. Head bolts are torqued in a special sequence to squish and flatten the head gasket as you go outwards. If unsure, "Buy the book". I prefer the three step of torque sequence theory. Torque all to 25ft. lbs. Then all at 50ft. lbs. then 75ft lbs.
This is a shot of the .030" lifter preload needed for proper clearance. If it is less it will tick. If it is more, it will bleed down and cause a loss of power. The space you are looking for is the distance between the wire clip and the top of the cup inside the lifter body.
Now, the fun begins. Go get something to eat and drink. Take the phone off the hook and come back. This is a long process and must be correct. I start with the first pushrod and rotate the crankshaft over until the camshaft lobe for that particular pushrod is facing down and spin the pushrod freely. I hold the top with a wrench and spin the bottom portion of the pushrod until i feel resistance. As soon as I feel the resistance I look down at the top of the lifter and watch to see the pushrod make contact and I stop. I mark the top and the bottom of the pushrods with a silver sharpie and rotate the bottom portion one full turn making it longer and lock it down with the nut. If confused, "Buy the book". As you adjust each pushrod make sure the camshaft lobe is down. Do all 16 at this time in this sequence.
If you have done all the work correctly so far you should be here and it look like this. That should have taken you about 30-60minutes to do this accurately.
Install valley pan gasket and valley pan. Hand tighten bolts. You can't get a socket in there.
Lets install the intake manifold gaskets and intake at this time. Use a thin bead of silicone around the ports and especially the water ports. Torque to correct torque values. Set the valve covers on after the gaskets have been in place.
The waterpump housing can go on next as well as the water crossover tube. Use thread sealant on all threads, a thin bead of silicone on the gaskets and torque to correct values.
Install the rubber o-rings on the sparkplug tubes and slide them in.
Mount a Edelbrock 600cfm Carbutretor to the intake. The PCV valve on this engine was installed where the crankcase breather was originally.
Lets install the electronic Mopar Performance Distributor. Before doing so, You must align the intermediate shaft correctly so your rotor lines up where you want the number one sparkplug wire to be installed in the cap. The shaft must also drop all the way to the bottom after ingaging the gear on the camshaft. You usually have to monkey with it to get it correctly into place. Then the gear will lower right in. If you look closely, under the intake and to the left of the distributor cap, you will see the PCV valve.
Following the correct firing order going in a clockwise direction, cut and make up the wire set and install them in the distributor and perspective cylinders. You can see a small mechanicall guage I install on the top of the block in the rear next to the distributor, This is to monitor oil pressure during break-in. There is another shot of the PCV valve if you look closely.
Mount a adapter to the back of you Hemi. Eeither a manual trans or an automatic will do. Mount the starter. Finish up the wiring and lets get ready to start this up.
You'll need some sort of exhaust system These are Basset Boat Headers.
You'll need to put 6 quarts of a thick oil in your Hemi. These have heavy rotating assemblies and benifit from a good cushion of oil. I use Valvoline Racing oil 20w-50 It has a higher level of Zinc required for flat tappet camshafts.
Eventhough racing oil is higher in zinc, it is safe insurance to add a special camshaft break-in lube. This raises the zinc and phosphorous levels to a more safe level. Auto makers started using hydraulic roller cams in the 90's so oil producers lowered the amount of zinc so that emissions could be at a safer level. Thus leaving the flat tappet cam people out to dry. Add a supplement containing Zinc and phosphorous.
Remove the distributor and intermediate drive shaft. Install a oilpump priming shaft and spin it in a clockwise direction until oil guage reads its highest point. Ususlly between 70-85 lbs. now your engine is primed and ready to go. Reinstall the intermediate shaft along with the distributor. Make sure that your engine is on the number one cylinders top dead center and install shaft in the correct position. Line up the rotor in the cap with the number one spark plug wire and install.
Lets push it outside and start it up.
This has just been a general guide to building an early Hemi. There are so many little things neccessary to make this all happen. From installation to assembly to firing. All the techincal information, step by step assembly procedures will be covered in my comprehensive book due out later this year. It is over 25 years of reserch and developement that has led me to the conclusion that no body has ever written an actual guide to build one of these. It will be a must have for all Hemi engine owners or enthusiast.
Looking to restore a WEDGE Engine or HEMI engine for one of the popular MOPAR cars during the 1950's through 1970's? You've found the right man for the job. Give Eddie a call to discuss your restoration or repair project. For over 25 years, Eddie has been excited about restoring the original beauty and performance of HEMI engines and American Muscle Cars. The HEMI engine was popular in production cars during the 50's and early 70's in cars and also in racing as one of the fastest engines on the market. Manufacturers such as Chrysler (FirePower Engine), DeSoto (FireDome Engine), Dodge (Red Ram Engine), and Plymouth were in aggressive competition during what is often called the "Horsepower Wars". The Chryster 426 HEMI Engine was so fast in 1964 that in 1965 it was banned from NASCAR races. HEMI Engines have a hemispherical combustion chamber that was great for efficient airflow and torque. The name HEMI has become synonymous with BIG and POWERFUL and these types of engines helped to shape the state of the art in racing and street cars during their time on the market.
Are you restoring a classic car that requires a HEMI or WEDGE engine under the hood, but yours is non-functioning, rusted out and a fraction of its former self? HEMI Haines has seen them all and can help you restore the engine or build a new one that will be to factory specs to make your car the ultimate replica and in like-new condition. Whether its a Barracuda, Charger, Road Runner, Coronet, Challenger, GTX, or another American Muscle Car, HEMI haines can bring it back to its original glory with a restored HEMI Engine that runs like new.